I started day 3 at Ipanema beach, which is not empty in the morning but it is south-facing, so much of it is in the shade. I sat directly on the sand and practiced my ukulele.
Later, I went to a place that was recommended, Aussie Coffee. Australians are pretty snooty about their coffee and their café culture, so I was hoping for the best. I ordered a “filtrado,” which in Seattle we call a “pour over;” it’s a good choice for super-tasters who don’t want their coffee to be too hot; the people that enjoy detecting notes about their coffee (I detect blueberries! And oak!).
I personally do not care for pour-overs as they take too long and I’m not super-taster. Also, I think the beans were rancid.
Anyway, I had my pour-over, went to class, and found my way back to Aussie Coffee, and had the quesadilla sincronizada and a cold brew. I cannot say that I recommend either, but the staff is super nice there; one of them remembered my name. Her name is “Duda” which sound to me like “she doubts” but apparently it’s the short name for “Eduarda.”
By the way, here in Brazil I’m going by the name “Patrick,” which is pronounced “Patríqui.”
That afternoon I joined the school’s
“Shitty Tour,” which is an inside joke. We took the subway to Rio Central and wandered down to the Boulevard Olímpico, saw the famous warehouse murals, and then wandered into the Museu de Amanhã, which was free that day, and something my nieces would enjoy.
I bolted a little early to sit outside and enjoy the sunset, and practice ukulele there at the harbor.
Afterward, we came back to Ipanema, and I got myself dinner at a sidewalk café; peixe dorado with mashed potatoes, rice, black beans, farofa, and a salad. I had no idea how to eat this meal with a fork and knife. I ended up pouring the beans next to the rice, sprinkling the farofa on top of my gallo pinto, and taking bites of fish. I left most of the potatoes on the plate, because why.
I did not make it back to a beach that night, it was only a one-beach day. However this morning I walked a block to Copacapana neighborhood, found myself some scrambled eggs with queijo minheiro (salty!) and then sat on Copacabana beach for a little. Later I wandered over to Arpoador, and took a picture with the Tom Jobim statue. And then after that I walked to Ipanema beach and practiced ukulele in the shade until it was time for class.
Right before class, I noticed a student with a tamborim, and I asked him where to buy instruments. We both went through our samba histories, and he was like, oh so you know Ivo Araujo, Philip Galinsky, and Stan the Cuica Man?
We didn’t have long before class started, but he gave me the WhatsApp of a guy that makes pandeiros, Rodrigo. I sent him a message and finalized the deal during Portuguese class. To my delight, Rodrigo offered to deliver my new pandeiro to the school.
It’s 10-inch diameter, with wood frame, natural head, and hammered copper jangles. While I waited for him to show up, I ate some grocery store spicy tuna rolls and took a picture of the taxi stand, because it says “ASS DE TAXI.”
Finally Rodrigo showed up, and told me the new way to tune the drum, and about the new technique of playing the downbeat bass with index finger instead of thumb. It was a little emotional.
For dinner I went back to Copacabana neighborhood and found a place called “Bibi”and ordered falafel, grilled vegetables and red beans. Once again, I have no idea how to knife-and-fork any of this, but here we are.
Sat on the beach for a little bit and then was asleep in bed before 7pm.
By the way, I was thinking it was a two-beach day, but technically today I went to Copacabana, Arpoador, and Ipanema before class, and then back to Copacabana in the evening. It’s a lot of beach moments and then also more showers than usual. Whatever, I’m on break.
Tomorrow I’ll practice pandeiro on the beach and try to re-focus on out-performing my classmates in Portuguese. There’s a bento lunch with teachers in the afternoon, and churrasco in the evening, which I might skip.
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