50 Years of Easter Egg Hunt Trauma

I saw that the alumni office of the school where I work was putting on an Easter egg hunt, so I signed up my two baby nieces. I started to worry, realizing that the only egg hunt I had ever attended was my first–and last–hunt in the early 1970s, when I was two or three years old.

I clicked on the information link but it as broken, so I emailed down to the alumni office and let them know, so they could fix it. As I was typing the email, wondering what the agenda was, what to wear, what was going to happen, I started to recall being too small, too slow, arriving too late to the Easter egg hunt 50 years ago. I started remembering not getting any eggs, wanting to cry, thinking the other kids were mean. I remember falling on my butt into thick black mud.

This resurfacing trauma started taking over my chest, and the email I was writing started to become a desperate overshare. I hit “send” on that email half feeling re-traumatized, and half laughing at myself for exposing my emotional state to the alumni director.

To his credit, the alumni director ran up the stairs and told me the agenda and answered all my questions, like Superman rescued that boy from falling into Niagara Falls. He explained everything until I knew the program; I felt safe.

Back at home, Li’l K and I took turns hiding eggs from each other. I had to teach her that eggs should be in plain sight, rather than hidden. I tried to incorporate counting to twelve, as she had a dozen plastic egg shells, and we always try to keep things educational. We left the plastic egg shells empty, just to practice the hunt. This was important to me, so I made sure that Li’l M was occupied so that Li’l K and I could get a few good runs in without baby sister interference.

The morning of the egg hunt, I went to work early to get work done; grading and planning; planning and grading. About an hour before the hunt started, the rain started to pour. My sister and brother in law showed up with the girls, and to my surprise a whole bunch of people I knew showed up, having been tipped off by my sister. There was little V and his parents, Ninang L and her two boys, plus her brother and his family. It was raining on all of us, and even though there was face painting, crafts, bubbles, coffee and doughnuts, it felt kind of rainy and miserable. It was going to be one of those PNW days when our shoes were soaked through.

The football field was covered with plastic eggs, and there was a 20 yard square reserved for 3 and under. I noticed some bins marked “return empty eggshells here,” so I explained to Li’l K that after she filled her basket, we’d open the eggs and leave the empties for them to reuse later. She wasn’t seeming to grasp the concept but I thought she’d figure it out in the moment.

The kids lined up on the sidelines, and the alumni director counted 3-2-1, and the kids flooded the field, gathering eggs. I saw Li’l K bust out of the 3-and-under section and run into the wider field; the adults were chasing after the kids. I stayed on the sidelines looking for my friend L, who had texted me saying that he had just arrived with his three kids.

It seemed to be over within seconds. Everyone was at the far end of the field, we were all getting rained on, and L and his family show up. I felt dread for his kids; knowing they had missed the entire event in the blink of an eye. My shoes were soaked through. L stayed positive; he said this kids didn’t really know what was happening and so they weren’t disappointed. The curse is knowing what’s going on.

I felt satisfied, at least, that Li’l K had made it across the field, and I imagined her basket was full of eggs.

I met them about mid field, and that’s where I saw Li’l K burst into tears and sit on the ground in the rain. Her mamá sat down to comfort her. They told me she didn’t understand what to do; that she saw the kids running into the field of eggs and was delighted and ran with them; she didn’t realize that the point was to collect the eggs as fast as possible. Her basket had just a handful of eggs. She sobbed.

Fifty Easters ago, that was me. I don’t remember crying, but I remember looking for eggs and they were gone; other kids walked away with full baskets. I believe at the time they were actual hard boiled chicken eggs, dipped in various in bright colors of paint. I remember thinking that I was brand new, and that my parents had just arrived in this country, and we didn’t know how anything worked. I remembered a picture of me in bright blue pajamas coveralls; my butt covered with thick black mud where I fell.

Li’l K cried until she was out of sobs; her sweet Kuya O gave her a few of his eggs to make her feel better. I was soaked through my shoes, and it was raining so hard that was hard to introduce people. Li’l K wasn’t in any mood to meet L’s kids, and they all got shy anyway. Everybody went their separate ways and I went back in my classroom and worked barefoot at my computer as my shoes and socks dried on the classroom heater.

Back home, we all laughed at my re-traumatization process. My sister asked my parents over facetime what went down 50 years ago, and they reported apparently we were not late to arrive at all. I was at the starting line for the 3-2-1 countdown, and apparently I didn’t understand that it was my job to collect eggs. I was delighted that all the kids were running. I thought it was funny. I realized too late that I missed out on all the eggs. My mama also said that the photo of me with mud on my butt was a totally separate occasion; my dad was playing pick-up basketball in the park, and I went after an out of bounds ball. And fell butt-first into some thick black mud. It had nothing to do with the Easter egg hunt; that was just me conflating early memories of Capital Lake Park.

Next year, I’ll prepare Li’l K better; I’ll brief her on what to do and make her say it back to me. Li’l M will be two, but she’s watch her sister and learn. This cycle of trauma has to end.

The day after the egg hunt, my brother in law K stayed up late and set the house up for an exclusive egg hunt; only Li’l K was invited. He taped a trail of Easter bunny paw prints outside of Li’l K’s room, down the stairs to the living room. The paw prints lead to Li’l K’s basket, and then all around the living room there were paw prints marking hidden eggs. This was a Bluey episode, actually.

I had a lot of work that morning, but I stayed home to see the exclusive egg hunt. Li’l K woke up groggily and was excited to see the paw prints, but had to be encouraged to follow them. She was glad to see the basket, but had to be encouraged to find the hidden dozen. It was a nice, wholesome moment as she took her time to find the eggs. Sunlight streamed into the living room. When it was over, she told me she needed candy so she could fill the eggs and surprise her dad. I told her we didn’t have candies in the house, but she could probably write small messages with her paper and crayons and stuff them into those eggs. Later I went into work, knowing that Li’l K’s trauma was healing.

When I got home for lunch, my sister told me I couldn’t come home, as Li’l K was setting up a surprise for me. So I went out, got some lunch, and came back afterward. However Li’l K had left the house and with her mamá to go dress shopping. I got to my room, and could see that Li’l K had set up a healing egg hunt for me as well. Her papá told me that she had also done one for him earlier, and that when she gets home, I had to pretend to be surprised.

She got home with her mamá a little later, and I acted surprised, and she was delighted. She made sure I found all the eggs, and I found all kinds of messages inside them; easter eggs images she had colored, a note that says “Te amo, Tío” and another note with a stamped bunny where she wrote her name. She even hid some of my sugar-free peanut butter cups in a couple of the eggs. They kind of taste like dirt but she was so excited to gift me some sugar free candy that I was also excited. My feet were warm and dry.

Later that week the alumni director told me it was a record crowd; they didn’t know exactly how many since it was raining to hard for anyone to check in with the QR codes. He asked if it went well, and I said no; Li’l K was traumatized and I was re-traumatized, but it was as good as could be expected in that kind of weather, and that my family had gone through an elaborate day of healing that involved three exclusive egg hunts, and that the mud-butt memory was conflated. And that my 50 year trauma had come full circle and that the kids are ok.

In Memoriam

My brother-in-law’s seven year old nephew passed away on Thursday, November 16, 2023. It was sudden and unexpected. We are devastated. It’s difficult to talk about the tragic circumstances of his passing. It’s difficult to even think about.

I remember Axel as a boisterous, energetic kid. He loved his cousins, my nieces. He liked to play peek-a-boo with M, who was just on the verge of walking. He loved K as well, who he called “Korita.” I think K saw him as a little loud and rowdy, so she preferred to play with his younger sister S. He brought this up a number of times, complaining good-naturedly that K prefers S. I think he accepted that little girls will be little girls, but also, it showed that he was fond of K as well. He also defended K when he didn’t like the way S was playing with her.

Axel had a big voice. He often contributed facts to the conversation by yelling, “Oh JP, one thing!” I don’t think he liked my aloha shirt, yelling, “Why are you wearing that?!” At one point I remember asking him, why are we yelling? He kind of laughed and repeated with he had just said at a lower volume; he realized his voice was larger than life.

K and M are probably too young to have clear permanent memories of their cousin. It was only two weeks earlier, during K’s preschool’s Día de Muertos celebration, when K was introduced to the concept of mortality. I’m grateful that I’ll be able to tell them about Axel, his big energy and his affection for them.

Eternal rest grant unto Axel, O Lord, and let perpetual light shine upon him. May his soul rest in peace. Amen.

We hold Axel’s family close; his parents, his little sister, his grand parents, his uncles, his cousins. We also pray for the recovery and success of the three patients who received the donated organs. Axel’s life and memory is a blessing.

Слава Україні

Our flight out of JFK was at 16:55, so we said we’d leave East Hampton at 11:00; we actually left at 12:00. Traffic wasn’t bad; a little over two hours, and we got drive along Little Peconic Bay and Great Peconic Bay.

We got to JFK at 14:00, checked out bags, and got whisked through TSA Precheck since we had a double stroller. Some baby-less Precheck travelers were annoyed at our special treatment, which was delicious.

Once we got in, we had an hour before boarding, which was the goal. We got food, used the restrooms, and filled our water bottles. We found a table in the food court and parked the stroller and piled our gear into the seats and went on separate mission sortis, while someone got pizza, someone else changed the baby, etc.

After eating, li’l K and I were alone at the table, holding down the fort. A grandmother, dressed in black, asked to sit at our table. I invited her to sit with us, and was explaining (in Spanish) to li’l K how the lady wanted to eat her food, just like we ate all of our food, before she had to go on her flight.

Of course li’l K is adorable (and so am I) so the lady asked us about li’l K’s name and age, and seemed genuinely moved by the beauty of li’l K’s name; said that she was beautiful, and that she also had a granddaughter of li’l K’s age. I asked her name, and she said both her name and her granddaughter’s name. She told us that she loved babies, and I could see that thinking of her granddaughter brought tears to her eyes.

She asked us where we were from and where we were traveling to; I had to explain to her that Seattle is close to Vancouver but in the US, since she had never heard of Seattle. She explained to us that she was flying to Poland on her way back to Ukraine. She said she spoke very little English but I told her her English is great; thumbs up.

It was about this point that our travel team returned from their various mission sortis and rendezvous’ed at the table, as it was time to move the family to our departure gate. The others were a little surprised that I had already given up the table, but by then li’l K and I were already friends with Helena, on a first name basis.

Note: I’m sure her name was not “Helena.” She told me her name and her granddaughter’s name in quick succession and “Helena” is what my memory can piece together, but I’m sure it wasn’t actually “Helena.” I did repeat both names when I heard them, but I know I’m failing to remember.

Anyway, as we had to move on to our gate, we wished Helena safe travels, and she wished us well as well and thanked us. I gave her my best “Слава Україні” and she brought both hands to her heart and was very moved and grateful.

We were at the gate for only a few moments when they called for early boarding; we flashed our li’l M at them and they waved us into the jetway.

I wish the best for “Helena” and her family, and I wish for peace in her country.

Travel Tips for Future Me

Here’s stuff I learned on my travels that I don’t want to forget next time.

Stay out of every wooded area of the USA especially East of the Rockies because omg ticks. They say to wear white or light-colored clothing, but dark colors may attract fewer ticks… if you can see them. Here’s how to dress for ticks, also don’t forget to lint roller and throw your clothes in the dryer for 6 min.

Hampton Jitney/Ambassador is fine, a little swanky, and a pretty good way to get to the city. It drops me off on 3rd Ave at 39th Street.

My feet/shoes weren’t ready for walking in Manhattan, or Paris for that matter. My shins and calves were working so hard that they got sore, and my right ankle started hurting. I ended up buying some conventional shoes at REI, which eliminated the soreness and left me with just the hurting ankle, which felt better when I rested. These shoes ended up being really handy for travel because they convert into slides. I might buy another pair for work.

I still needed a MetroCard for the JFK Airtrain, even though it was OMNY the rest of the time. I learned the hard way that you have to take the Airtrain to Federal Circle and then transfer to the trains on the terminal loop; I wish that had been more explicit.

In Paris I wanted my tiny 12oz water bottle, not the big one that is required for survival in suburban America. By the way, Paris tap water is delicious, and you’re getting it in restaurants if you’re ordering that carafe d’eau. By the way, when you google “carafe d’eau” in English, the will invariably tell you that it’s the establishment’s legal responsibility to provide you with that carafe of water, it’s your right as a human existing in France. It struck me that it’s something we don’t mention about the USA or Canada; it’s just our culture, but when it’s France they make it seem like a civil rights victory. It seems to me that the laws have been changing, but it’s still absolutely their culture to provide water to thirsty people. Besides, what North Americans really have is a cultural expectation for ice water, with ice; what Europeans would consider too much ice.

Air France offers complimentary wine and champagne in economy class. Ask for it.

Don’t practice your instrument, even quietly in an empty space, at the Jardin de Luxemboug, no matter how close it is to your hotel. Try instead sitting along the Seine somewhere.

I found buying an RER ticket into Paris pretty confusing, and it wasn’t my first time there, and I speak French. I ended up buying a round trip RER ticket; when it came time to return a week later, the return ticket didn’t work and I ended up buying a new one-way ticket back to the airport.

Buying the Navigo card was easy; I went to the ticket booth. It’s a cardboard card that fits in a weird plastic case. I only needed Zones 1 and 2 because I already had my RER ticket (so I thought) and I never want to go to Versailles or Disney. I bought a seven day pass on a Monday, so the last day was the following Sunday.

When you buy a new Navigo pass, you have 48 hours (from the moment you bought it) to stick a physical thumbnail photo to it. There are photo booths next to the ticket machines, but you have to supply the scissors somehow. The ticket booth lady told me to carry the receipt around with me until I had my photo in place. I borrowed scissors from the hotel reception. The card itself has adhesive to stick your photo on.

I don’t know if it was more or less cost effective than buying 10-packs of paper tickets (les carnets de dix) but I felt pretty free to get onto any bus or train I wanted to without having to worry about it. It was a lot of busses actually. I was on a bus when the fare inspectors got on; I saw people fumbling for their paper tickets but I just booped my Navigo onto the inspector’s tricorder and that was the end of it.

How do you say “iced tea” in French? It’s called “iced tea” or “ice tea” now, although the dictionary suggests le thé glacé. I remember back in the late 90s, some French dudes trying to order iced tea in the Center House, struggling with the concept, wondering if they should order “cold tea.” I stepped in and told them “on dit iced tea” and they were grateful and surprised that a chubby asian kid was a) listening, and b) butted in to help with ESL.

Two aloha shirts is enough for any four-day suitcase. Truth be told, I only wore one. I had forgotten how pitifully little aloha there is in certain parts of the world, and I did get one angry “Why are you wearing that?!

Francey-pants: I was in Paris for a week, and I brought travel pants, slacks, and pantacourts (men wear Capri pants there). Men also wear dressy shorts but not basketball shorts. I think cargo shorts are probably ok. Note: I didn’t go into any museums or churches, but I did go to dinner, and I wore slacks.

The rest of my four-day suitcase was: four plain colored t-shirts, four pairs of chonis, 3 pairs of socks (3 pairs out-of-sight, one pair ankle socks), a balaybayan, a linen sport coat, a halloween costume hoody (it’s my default travel hoody now), two pairs of sandals (only needed one). Ukulele, cpap, meds. Computer, chargers, shaving kit. Here’s how to fold a sport coat, and don’t forget to bring the detergent sheets for the laundromat.

From both Paris and New York, I only gained a fishin’ hat and some souvenirs; a Starbucks mug that someone had asked me for, and a bunch of refrigerator magnets. I hate buying souvenirs and I hate packing bulky souvenirs in my suitcase even more, so whoever is expecting a souvenir from me is going to get a refrigerator magnet, end of story.

Paris is pretty tourist kid-friendly; I saw tons of tourist kids touring in strollers or big enough to walk, and we certainly could avoid the biggest travel headache: carseats. The Paris Métro is famously not accessible to wheels (strollers or wheelchairs) but the busses would be fine. I’d love to take my nieces to Paris someday, maybe the same culture and photo safari that I did last week. I’d love to wake up in an apartment and make breakfast, have a market/laundry morning, have lunch in a café, go back and take a nap, leave for a photo safari afternoon/evening, and then back to the apartment for a light dinner, then a passegiata in the neighborhood. That is a nice day to me. We can make it more educational as they get older.

If we stay long enough to get adjusted, we may even go out to dinner at French dinner time, which starts at 7pm which is way way way too late for me unless I have a 5pm goûter, which I always forget.

New York certainly has its own charms for kids, I certainly saw a lot of strollers and summer camps and kid activities going on. Just like Paris, I think New York City would be great as long as we avoided carseats altogether. However, future visits to Long Island and Upstate New York will always be haunted by the specter of carseat logistics. I can think of a Manhattan photo safari, but for some reason it doesn’t seem as fun or as leisurely as the Paris photo safari.

If I think of more travel tips, I’ll post them here. Currently the only thing on my calendar is a long weekend in Chicago and a 5-day holiday in Las Vegas.

Upstate Odyssey; le pont de cinq jours

Yesterday we piled the family, two grandparents, and two cousins in to two cars to visit K’s sister in Upstate New York. I was assigned to the Filipino squad; my sister and I and my two nieces. We were off to a slow start as there was mucho transito just getting out of the Hamptons. We stopped for gas once, and then stopped at another gas station as some of the passengers needed hugs and a bathroom stop. I ended up buying a 7-11 tuna sandwich, and then going next door and getting a veggie burrito from the place next door.

The cute backseat passengers were quiet most of the way through Long Island but in Queens we somehow failed to make it across the Whitestone Bridge; the pilot and navigator were distracted due to sparkling conversation. That was right about the time that the cute passengers demanded hugs and the heavens yawned open and started dumping rain on us. Rain dripped on us from trees above as we got in our quick hugs.

We got back on the road, cut through the Bronx and made it as far as Yonkers when one of the babies needed hugs again, and it was an emergency! So we got off the highway and I searched for a Starbucks or something where we could hug babies, be dry, and use the bathroom. It was a Starbucks desert, but I did see a place called “El fogón” and I imagined it would be a family Mexican restaurant, the kind we used to stop in a couple years ago on our drive to Vegas.

It was stressful to find parking with a baby screaming about the indifference of the bourgeoisie, but we found a parking spot and dashed in the rain to El Fogón. Our car looked like car prowl dream, but luckily it was raining like the end of the world (my late roommate, a cop, told me years ago that car prowls prefer sunny weather).

To my surprise (and delight), El Fogón is definitely a Puerto Rican deli with four dining tables, a steam table, a kitchen, and a bathroom that li’l K found to be stinky but still used like a champ! We ordered a combo off of the poster without seeing the price, and got arroz, habichuelas, pescado frito, maduros, and a soda for $30. They were playing salsa tropical during the rainstorm; li’l K was fascinated by the rain from behind the plate glass window. My sister asked where we were, and I said Yonkers; the lady cleaning the table corrected me, saying we were in Mount Vernon.

We thought the food was really good, and we were glad to wait out the rainstorm there. The ladies behind the counter were warm and of course were charmed by the babies.

We hit the road again and made it all the way to The First Marked Nature Trail in America, where someone in the group had to pee cowboy-style on the side of the road (not me). We took a moment for hugs and hand sanitizers, and then hit the road again.

By the time we made it to J and P’s house in Warwick, the babies were in full revolt. One was screaming like her pancreas was being held without a trial; the other was getting stressed out from hearing it. We were glad to arrive finally, and there was a spaghetti dinner waiting for us. Of course I was still full from El fogón but ate spaghetti anyway; we all did.

Then the cousins started playing in that screaming way, so I found my way to my room and fell asleep.

Back in East Hampton

Kissing my nieces. I saw li’l M first this morning, her papá handed her to me and she immediately elbowed me in the neck to get back to her papá. She gave me some smiles later and has been warming back up to me over the course of the day. I’ve managed to get some chubby snuggles and kisses and zerberts.

Li’l K came running when she heard I was there, and I got the sweetest kisses and hugs that any uncle has ever gotten in the history of the world. I hope that the next time I go to Paris that the whole family can come with me. We can rent an apartment and make our own omelets in the morning. I think she liked the sound of that. My trip without her had made her anxious; she asked both her mamá and her papá separately over the week to not go to France.

What I loved about Paris I loved walking everywhere, even though my ankle hurt. I loved how close everything was. I loved taking the bus when my ankle hurt. Whenever gMaps offered me a choice between bus and Métro, I took the bus. I loved never needing a car.

I made a choice this time to no go to any museums or churches; I only went to monuments to take pictures. It was still a fulfilling and worthwhile week.

What I’d do differently I would bring a smaller water bottle. I would limit my tropical shirts to two. I’d practice my ukulele along the Seine, rather than the Jardin de Luxembourg. Next time I won’t go alone; I’m confident enough now to show someone around. I’ve got to find a flight that gets in in the afternoon.

What surprised me So many Asian businesses. How different Léon de Bruxelles was. How many small kids in strollers there were, visiting; and like in NYC, they all seemed to be rocking Uppababy strollers. Businesses were closed on Sundays. How little I wanted or needed to take the Métro, the system that opened my eyes made me love transit and walkability in the first place.

The answer is “no.” Did I think it was dirty/smelly/trashy? No. Was anyone mean or rude to me? No.

One last story I haven’t told yet; on Day 6 I was on the 40 bus from Abbesses at the peak of Montmartre. At the stop, after all the passengers who wanted to get off got off, a woman approached the bus door and asked the driver, “Eiffel Tower?” in an American accent. I saw that there were a group of other confused Americans listening to her and hoping for the best.

The driver said, Non, non, non. Then the lady in the front seat leaned out the door and told the confused woman that this 40 was going in the wrong direction; they should take another 40 (in the other direction) back town to Place Pigalle, where they could get on a Métro and find their way.

These were good directions, but I could tell by the looks on their faces that the Americans could not process it; it was either going too fast for them, or maybe the accent was too strong. The bus pulled away, and the bus driver and woman in the front seat shared a moment of genuine concern and pity for those lost people. But they had given the lady good directions (in English!) and the bus had to move on. Besides those people were grown and had somehow already made it to the top of Montmartre on their own.

Looking back, I wonder if I would have stepped off the bus to rescue those people had they been Filipino or Filipino American. Or if they had been Pacific Islander, Asian, Latino, or Black. Would I have used my powers to help a lost Taiwanese family? What if they were Chinese? The answer depends on my own biases and stereotypes, as well as experiences, and who I’ve learned to identify with. If it had been my parents who had been the lost people, I would have hoped someone like me would have stepped off the bus and set them on the right path.

Maybe I could have helped them.

Or maybe I would have stepped off the bus and offer to help, and they would have taken one look at me and told me to take a hike. Or maybe there was more to the situation and it would have been a total waste of my time.

Anyway, I didn’t help them. They’re probably fine.

Last day in Paris

After my last omelet at Les Patios I walked out to the Pont Neuf and then all the way back down the river to the Institut du Monde Arabe, and then back down to the hotel taking Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Rue des Écoles. Later, I went back up to my hotel room and packed up my suitcase and checked out.

I made a care package for Christela of all the cool things that weren’t going back with me in my suitcase (shaving cream, hot sauce, balaybayan, mini umbrella). I took a bus out to her place in the 14ème and delivered it to her, and she was nice enough to send me to a restaurant. The restaurant ended up being closed, so I bussed back up to Luxembourg and ate at a Basque restaurant. I got to say eskerrik asko and agur, some words I picked up at the Shanghai Euskal Etxea 15 years ago.

I did some last minute shopping; books for the kids, and a can of pâté de fois gras for my sister. I didn’t find any, so I bought her a jar of rillettes de carnard instead. I wonder if Parisians have lost their taste for gavage; I certainly have.

From there, it was an express RER to the airport, and then all the baffling joys of CDG. I had kind of a bad cheese sandwich at the gate, and before I knew it I was aboard the flight watching Guardians of the Galaxy Vol III.

So the guy sitting next on the flight asked the flight attendants for socks, so he wouldn’t have to wear shoes on the plane, and he wouldn’t have to step on mystery liquids with his white out-of-sight socks. The flight attendant said he would “do the max” to find him some socks. After take-off, the guy next to me leaves his seat and goes to the back of the plane, and then for some reason goes through the curtains into business class, and comes back with long blue business-class socks and sits down. Just then, the cart comes down the aisle and another flight attendant offers us chicken or pasta.

As I’m being handed my tray, the flight attendant boss shows up wanting to understand what had just happened, why had he busted in to business class, busted open a business class courtesy kit and helped himself to the blue business class socks. He responded, irritated, that he already explained to everyone that he NEEDED socks because of his feet, etc., that he flies business class all the time, and has frankly come to expect a higher level of service from Air France, and that socks mean absolutely nothing to them, and that he’s right.

Fight attendant boss was not moved by his words, it is not acceptable behavior, you can’t just help yourself to business class socks when sitting in economy class, and she can’t afford to supply the entire plane with socks.

They went around the block with this a few times; meanwhile I’m sitting on the aisle seat, chubby and frozen with my pasta meal unopened as they shouted over me. Finally the dude concluded that he would file a complaint, and flight attendant boss was like fine, I shall also write a report, and I will file a claim! and I shall write a report! And with that she left. I took a breath and then bon appétit.

JFK was everything we know and love; endless empty hallways, employees yelling incomplete information about who stands where, customs officials looking at their watches while I walk past with an illicit jar of rillettes de canard in my rolley bag. Smuggle smuggle. Of course, I had to take a moment to laugh with the baggage claim employees when I lost my phone for a moment; they pointed it out to me and then laughed hard the way New Yorkers wanna share a laugh with you.

My brother in law K came to pick me up at Terminal 1 and it was a straight two-hour drive back out to East Hampton. I slept for about six hours and then got up to make coffee and breakfast at 7am.

Outside, it’s absolutely dumping rain; the sky got dark and the rain is loud. Everyone in the house is still asleep. I”m glad to be back here with my family, and I can’t wait to kiss my nieces when they wake up.

Paris Day 6: Montmarte and the Souvenirs

Last full day here.

Shopping. Walked to Forum Les Halles because V said they’d be open. Bought a couple of dresses that they’ll grow out of soon enough. I love them and want to show them around Paris when they’re a little older.

Montmartre. I followed some Tiktok advice to take Bus 40 to the top of Montmartre, but instead of getting off at the top, I rode it to the end and walked around the 18eme a little bit. It seemed quiet and charming and probably too hilly for me. Rode the 40 again back up to the top, ate a pizza, took pictures, and wound my way down to Métro Anvers, and found my way back to Place de la Sorbonne. There was a nap, and I got up to buy some water and snacks for my room.

Later I walked to Léon Saint-Germain. It was only 6pm, only Asians and some tourists with families eat that early! I am an Asian. This chain has gone through a rebranding; it’s a lot more TGIFridays than I remembered, and the menu has totally changed; it’s less mussel-centric. I ordered “Moules Méditerranée” because it seemed closest to the moules à la Provençal that I remember from 2005. Alas, it was not moules à la Provençal, but it was pretty good.

Walked back to the hotel; failed to walk back a different way despite my best efforts. Saw the Marché Saint-Germain, but found out that it won’t be open tomorrow. Got back to hotel and and found that it was already time to check in for my flight. Yikes!

I checked in to the flight and pre-packed my bag so I can be ready to go tomorrow. I have to check out of my room at noon and should get on a train to the airport at 4pm.

I like Paris, it’s so much more Asian now, I know it better, and my French is way better now. The next time I come, I want to stay near the Place de la Sorbonne again. We’ll see.

Day 6: Poke day

Yesterday I got up after 7am; I might be done with jetlag. Or maybe I just jinxed it. At Les Patios, Tuesday waiter was back, and I think he remembered that I had ordered an Americano days ago, as he was surprised when I instead ordered a double espresso.

I spent most of the morning in bed, blogging. It was kcold morning and it was drizzling on and off. Later I got a message from Christela to meet me at El Vecino near Pyramide, so about an hour before I started hoofing it in that direction.

I really like staying in the Quartier Latin, near the Place de la Sorbonne. Something about the place (and also the Boulevard Saint Michel) remind me of the Midi; it seems quieter and smaller scale to me. It’s easy to walk to all the sights and all the neighborhoods in the city center, and if I’m feeling lazy or in a hurry there’s almost always a direct bus.

I got to El Vecino and saw a message that Christela would be a fashionably late, so I sat and had a coke zero. I was speaking Spanish with the staff, and my Spanish felt shaky and sounded a little off.

Christela arrived and we ordered; I thought the menu was a little weird there, and we agreed that the food was not wow. C’était pas “wow”… But also, we kind of ate it wrong; we ordered three of the same taco and ate it seated, leisurely, over the course of what seemed like over an hour. We Frenched it up.

We took a stroll in the neighborhood around Quartier du Palais Royale in the 1er, and saw all the Asian businesses; it makes me wonder what that place was like in the days before bubble tea and ramen. We walked through the courtyards of the Jardin du Palais Royale but I did’t take any pictures because I was too busy chatting with Christela. We did witness a shooting, as in “oh look there’s a shooting!” “Shooting” is the French word for “photo shoot,” someone was doing wedding pictures. “Shooting” is just so common these days.

Later I followed Christela through the subway and we somehow ended up in the 14eme. When we finally had a seat in her apartment, I realized it was already 6pm, and we hadn’t even started shopping for dinner. I took a bus back to the hotel to grab the seaweed I had brought, and Christela went to K-mart to buy ingredients for poke and cucumber kimchi.

When we met back up at the apartment, V was just arriving as well, and we went upstairs and made poke, which ended up being salmon poke with limu. I wish I had been able to serve the rice hotter, and for some reason the cucumbers were a little dry. I stayed until past midnight, chatting about life with these two beautiful sisters, and then Christela walked me to the Métro and I took the 13 to the 10 back to Place de la Sorbonne and called it a night.

Not sure what’s next; today is sunny and cold with no chance of rain. It’s also Sunday, which means most stores are closed today. Before I leave in a few days, I have to get souvenirs and gifts, get some final tourist photos, probably do laundry one more time before I leave.

I fear I may have dropped Patricio el Pato somewhere here in Paris. I’ve searched through all my gear and can’t find him. Maybe he’ll turn up.

The next time I come to Paris, I’ll bring my smallest water bottle, and maybe fewer aloha shirts. Otherwise I pretty much packed exactly what I needed, even though the weather turned out to be colder and wetter than I had expected.

I can’t wait to see my nieces again.

Paris Day 5: Kiss the ladies, it’s Paris!

Yesterday I was pleasantly surprised to see a professional LSF interpreter taking up a quarter of the screen during the morning news segment. A long time ago, we had ASL interpreters on American news, but they disappeared in favor of closed captioning. If they had asked any Deaf person, or thought about it for a second, they would realize that Deaf people would be more comfortable in their own signed language having to read the (imperfect) text in the dominant language.

Before breakfast I walked my laundry a couple blocks to the laundromat and started the load with out incident. I came back to Les Patios and ordered my standard cheese omelet and double espresso, but couldn’t stay for the second double espresso, much to the shock and surprise of my waiter. I got back to the laundromat and threw my load into a dryer le sèche-linge. I was able to program 10 minutes of drying, but despite my best efforts (different combinations, getting change, etc.) I couldn’t not get it to accept many more money. I brought my gear back to the hotel and hung it up to finish drying.

I wanted to get to the Marais, and I decided to walk as this town is tiny and there’s so much to see on the way. My route was Boulevard Saint-Germain, cross the Seine at Île Saint-Louis (Pont Tournelle), Boulevard Henri IV, Place de la Bastille, Boulevard Beaumarchais, Rue Pas de Mule. On the Boulevard Saint-Germain I spotted a spectacular Greek deli window display at Le Pirée; the octopus salad stopped me in my tracks. Γιαγιά saw me taking a picture and yelled something at me from the counter (it was probably “Bonjour!”) so I nodded and continued walking. If that food is as good as it looks, that neighborhood is lucky.

I forgot that I had wanted to pass by the Institute du Monde Arabe. I made it to Place de la Bastille and on to the Place des Voge, where I took a couple of duck-pics and sat and practiced ukulele for a while. Later a hopped on the 96 bus and got off at Hôtel de Ville, and found my way to Eataly (S in had told me that she was a fan). It was still early; maybe 11:45, but I bought a slice of anchovy pizza with burrata or something and slathered it with chile oil. It was exquisite.

Later I found the restroom and took a picture of a urinal fly; I had learned about it from TikTok but had never seen one in real life before.

From there, I tried to get lost in the zone piétonnne of the Marais. The last time I was here in June 2005, I felt like the entire Marais was pedestrianized; I felt like we could walk for kilometers without having a car come down the road. Now, the zone seems smaller; maybe 12 blocks between Les Halle and the Centre Georges Pompidou. Apparently it’s bigger on Sundays? Anyway, nothing like what they’re planning. I stopped to take a picture outside Flunch; you know how I feel about that place.

I walked back through the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, over the Île de la Cité and back to the hotel in time for a torrential rain storm. Once the rain subsided I went for a snack at Au Ptit Grec and then off to the Jardin de Luxemboug to find a quiet corner to practice ukulele. Quietly, as not to bother anyone. No one could hear me playing.

While practicing, two park rangers in polo shirts approached me politely; one asked me if I had been there the day before (“Yes, I was here yesterday…“) and that he knew because his colleague had mentioned me (“You all talk about me?!”). He then went on to say that they had allowed me to stay the day before because absolutely no one was there, (“Yes, sir, that’s why I came…”) but that today since the weather is so nice… And then he trailed off.

Look, I understand that some cultures are high context, but when you’re trying to enforce a policy to someone from another country, I think high context communication is actually quite pathetic. It’s bad communication. I proposed to rebrand it from “high context” to “quite pathetic bad communication.” Like I’m responsible for following a policy that he doesn’t even allow himself to speak. I didn’t care enough to ask for an explanation, I just put my gear away and enjoyed the sunny day, and acted respectfully. I understand that it’s my culture clash and I’m being judgemental, but as I’m also entitled to an opinion, I think high-context communication is absolutely feeble; speak clearly, I don’t care to read your mind. I don’t value that. Gross.

I think high context communication is the privilege of a dominant monoculture. Dominant monocultures don’t need me to give them the benefit of the doubt.

Anyway, back to the hotel for a nap, and then of to Diasporâs in the Marais. Christela hasn’t changed, not a lick, since last saw her in Shanghai in 2009. Her friend B met us, and we had a wonderful time catching up about cooking (and not cooking) and also the plagues of the Coachella Valley (stink bugs, swallows, caterpillars > ugly moths, baby rattlesnakes, gnats that die on your car by the thousands, etc.) as well as the regular, non-plague hazards (scorpions, 45ºC heat, the San Andreas Fault…) I didn’t even mention flash floods or sand storms.

They thought it was a kick that we had survival kits in the classrooms, though it’s become more common now with all the gun violence. We talked about school cafeterias, pizza rat, and 搶著買單fighting for the check. I found myself telling these wild stories about the desert and American corporate and school culture, and I wondered if I was monopolizing the convo; they seemed to be quite interested; especially the plagues.

I want to mention that it was wonderful to see Christela again, and to meet her friend B.

Also, having dinner at Diasporâs was a little like having dinner in Wakanda; everyone there was beautiful, we were celebrating African cultures, and Black people were not in any danger. This is exactly the kind of place I wanted to find myself in Paris. I wanted to find the owner and gush about it. I had a similar wonderful experience in LA, at Buna Ethiopian Restaurant and Market. There is an obvious common thread here that I just realized; Black spaces. I’ll think it over and maybe have something to say later.

Kissed the ladies goodnight at the Métro station (it’s Paris!) and went back to the hotel on the 38.